Fashion month got off to a bright start with New York Fashion Week’s hottest young talent spearheading a new mood in the American fashion capital. Here are the five key trends you need to know from New York Fashion Week spring/summer 2020.
The trend: white shirt 4.0
Where we’ve seen it: The Row, Bevza, Maryam Nassir Zadeh, Tibi
What you need to know: Halfway through NYFW, Apple announced the launch of the iPhone 11 from the glowing stage of the Steve Jobs Theatre in Cupertino, California, to an audience of global tech and fashion journalists. The brand’s desire to create a perfectly executed product that offers everyday utility and luxury in one great gulp wasn’t lost on designers or showgoers. The FROW that fell head over heels for the flawless iterations of the unisex shirt on The Row’s spring/summer 2020 runway are likely to be the same demographic that will be carrying the iPhone 11 immediately after its release.
This new shirting doesn’t boast frills or gimmicks — indeed, it doesn’t boast at all. It’s not meant to be styled asymmetrically and there’s conspicuously no hint of embellishment. Consider this your most user-friendly investment piece.
Above: Tibi ready-to-wear spring/summer 2020; Bevza ready-to-wear spring/summer 2020; Maryam Nassir Zadeh ready-to-wear spring/summer 2020.
The trend: Seventies day dressing
Where we’ve seen it: Tory Burch, Coach 1941, Maryam Nassir Zadeh
What you need to know: “I was really excited about the Seventies safari theme of spring/summer 2020, so I’m carrying that on a bit, but I’m going to fuse it with chic mermaids,” Maryam Nassir Zadeh told Vogue in the days before her spring/summer 2020 show. The New York designer is a firm favourite of editors seeking out the youthful creative uprising that’s sweeping the US fashion capital.
If the Seventies daywear itself seems nothing new (we all recognise the tonal leather layers and gorgeously slouchy boots from our own wardrobes and wishlists), take a closer look at the attitude and the styling. New York has always been famous for its elevated polish, but — thanks to a distinctly laid back groove — we’re being reminded this is a city that’s never uptight.
Above: Tory Burch ready-to-wear spring/summer 2020; Sies Marjan ready-to-wear spring/summer 2020; Maryam Nassir Zadeh ready-to-wear spring/summer 2020.
The trend: Draping
Where we’ve seen it: Proenza Schouler, Sies Marjan, Oscar de la Renta
What you need to know: designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez behind New York-based label Proenza Schouler were on immaculate form this season, with corseted tailoring and sculptural Grecian dresses placing added emphasis on the shape of the woman’s body. In a show that’s destined to be one of fashion month’s highlights, the revival of draping and cowl-neck cuts is particularly significant, creating an instant Hollywood goddess-like quality. More endearing still, is that the collection itself was designed as a love letter to the working mothers in the Proenza Schouler studio.
Above: Proenza Schouler ready-to-wear spring/summer 2020; Oscar de la Renta ready-to-wear spring/summer 2020; Sies Marjan ready-to-wear spring/summer 2020.
The trend: the bodysuit revival
Where we’ve seen it: Collina Strada, Chromat, VFiles
What you need to know: the dressed-up one-piece may have been one of Instagram’s favourite trends of summer 2019, but the sculpted bodysuits that ignited the runway at Chromat, Collina Strada and VFiles aren’t destined for the beach. These styles were readied for the club, with an unmistakable air of New York hedonism.
Above: VFiles ready-to-wear spring/summer 2020; Chromat ready-to-wear spring/summer 2020; Collina Strada ready-to-wear spring/summer 2020.
The trend: gothic prom
Where we’ve seen it: Khaite, Area, Oscar de la Renta
What you need to know: flounce and volume are still on the menu for SS20, subject to one key update: switch out the fuchsia and ironic lilac. It’s the all-black prom dress that’s now inspiring an elegant take on retro debutant styling fit for the dawn of a new decade.
Above: Khaite ready-to-wear spring/summer 2020; Area ready-to-wear spring/summer 2020; Oscar de la Renta ready-to-wearspring/summer 2020,