Narrator: If you’re wondering what a monolid is, it’s an eyelid that doesn’t have a crease. It’s different from a double eyelid, which has a crease. Again, this is a monolid without a crease. This small difference makes learning to do makeup a bit harder.
Chia-Yi: Yeah, I definitely see that in tutorials. They do say like, “Oh put this under the crease and then put this over the crease,” and I don’t have those, so I don’t know what I’m supposed to do when I don’t have that crease.
Youtuber #1: “Crease refers to the area where the lid creases into the eye shape.”
Youtuber #2: “I’m buffing this into the crease.”
Youtube #3: “Like above the crease.”
Michelle: Girl, I don’t got a crease. It’s just one flat surface. I guess my crease is here so I could just recreate the look no problem, but basically it looked like I had a black eye. It just didn’t look the same.
Irene: So monolids are really so different from double eyelids, and you really can’t do the same makeup on both.
Christy: I think you definitely have to search for a monolid tutorial, but to find a good one, you really have to do some digging.
Narrator: We invited a professional makeup artist who specializes in monolids into our studio to give us some of her best tips.
Irene: Hi, I’m Irene Kim. I’m a makeup artist of 10 years that works in New York and L.A.
Narrator: Irene’s worked with Google, The New York Times, and Nike.
Irene: Today, we’re going to be creating four different looks for monolids. Smoky eye, pop of color, perfect cat eye, and natural look. First up, smoky eye. I’m gonna take a cream eyeshadow, and because we’re going for a dark look, I’m using a dark gray, charcoal-y one. A lot of people, including makeup artists, actually don’t know how to do a smoky eye on Asian eyes. So the way that a lot of people do a smoky eye is to create that V from the outer corner going in. However, if you do that on an Asian eye, depending on the shape of the eye, it’s gonna look like they got punched. Even just by creating a little bit of color on the lid and bringing it up higher towards the eyebrow, that creates a nice, soft smoky eye. So one problem that monolids have is that they’ll put eyeshadow on, and when they open their eyes, you don’t see anything. A trick to actually seeing where you’re getting the eyeshadow is to keep your eyes open and apply right on top so you can see exactly where you’re getting the color. If you wanna bump it up, nice, easy way is to layer powder eyeshadow on, and I’m gonna use a little bit of a brown with a sparkle in it. So a lot of times when you create a smoky eye, the shadow can fall underneath the eye. Little trick that I like to do is take blotting paper, put it right underneath the eye, and go right on top, and I’m going as close to the lash line as possible, almost onto the lashes, and almost creating an eyeliner with this eyeshadow. Now, in order to create a little depth to this smoky eye, I’m gonna add a little bit of a dark purple color. And, like I said, the key to doing the Asian smoky eye is to go across the lid, working up towards the brow instead of outside in, and this creates a lot of shape, depth, and definition to the eye, really opening it up and making it appear a lot larger than it actually is. So now you can create even more of a smoky eye by adding an eyeliner. One good thing about Asian eyes is that you can get completely different looks depending on how you use the makeup. You can create the look of a double crease, or you can just accentuate the monolid. So next, we’re going to take a little bit of that eyeshadow and go right under the outer edge of her eye. And for a good smoky eye, you wanna make sure that the edges are blended well together. And now we’re gonna add a little bit of that highlighter and go on the inner corner of the eye and on the bottom. We’re going to add a little bit of sparkle and shine. And lastly, we’re gonna add a little bit of mascara.
Irene: First, I’m gonna add a little bit of eyeshadow. Gonna take a nice, neutral color all across the lid. I’m gonna take highlighter and add a little bit on the inner corner of the eye. We’re going to add an eyeliner, but before we do that, we’re going to use a pop of color to create a defined eye look. I love purple on Asian eyes ’cause it’s kind of almost like a neutral color but definitely adds a little oomph. And I’m going right across the eye, as close to the lash line as possible. I’m blending it out just to soften it so it’s not a harsh line. I like to layer colors. I’m using kind of like a sparkly navy to blend with the purple, and that creates depth. Next, I’m gonna use a dark green eyeliner to add a little bit more pop to the eye. I feel like colors that are really nice that people don’t usually use are purples and greens, and those colors tend to actually work really well on everybody, but I think it’s a color that not a lot of Asians are used to or comfortable using, but when they do, it creates a really pretty effect that isn’t as dramatic as you would think. So as you can see, we’ve already used purple, green, and a little bit of navy on her eyes, but it doesn’t look too over the top. Next, I’m going to show you a quick and easy way to add a pop of color on the bottom of her eyes. I’m using a cream blue eyeshadow, but because it’s only right at the edge, it doesn’t feel so harsh. Next, I’m taking a turquoise color right into the middle of her eye, and it actually creates more shape to the eye. By adding more color to the bottom of the eye, it gives it more dimension and makes the eye look bigger and rounder. And lastly, I’m gonna add the highlighter on the inner corner of her eye to kind of blend it all together.
Irene: One product I like to use to make shadows last long is a nice, long-lasting cream eyeshadow. We’re using this as a base, and we’re gonna be putting some more colors on top. Go on top of the lid, on the inner corner, and a little bit underneath, and this is really gonna open up the eyes. Next, I’m gonna use a long-lasting stick eyeshadow, and I’m gonna apply with a brush. For this, I wouldn’t use too much of a fluffy brush but a little bit firmer, and I’m just gonna go right across the lash line, and this is gonna act as a base. We’re layering products to make the products last long so that Michelle won’t find that she has no makeup on at the end of the day. And in light layers, slowly work your way up towards the eyebrow, working up this way vertically, and work little by little until you can start seeing it. It might help to actually apply the eyeshadow with your eye open so you can see exactly how much pigment you’re getting on your eye. For people that aren’t comfortable wearing eyeliner, I would say the best way is to draw a wing with a pencil and then trace it with a liquid or a cream, and I’m drawing in small strokes a line across the lid. We’re gonna add a little cat eye to the end of her lashes. The easiest way is to open your eyes, pull your lid taut, and you’re gonna slowly draw a little line at an angle going up and follow your eye shape so that it doesn’t look like the eyes are dragging down but slowly being lifted up. We’re going to take that liquid liner and slowly draw over the line that we’ve created with the pencil and make sure, at the end, you make it a nice, sharp line, and if you like, you can also add a little bit of shadow towards the end over here just to blend the eyeshadow and the liner together. The last step is just adding mascara to your top and bottom lashes.
Irene: For women that don’t typically wear makeup but kind of want to add a little pop to their eyes, a great option is a light cream eyeshadow, but sometimes with Asian eyes or hooded eyes, you can’t actually see the eyeshadow, so I always work lightly and then slowly build up towards the eyebrow, and the lighter your touch, the less mistakes you’ll have. An easy way to accentuate the monolid is to use a little bit of highlighter on the inner corner of the eye. If you decide you want to highlight it a little bit more, you can go over with a powder, and you can actually use this all across the eye about midway to where the pupil is. A lot of people actually like to highlight with highlighter over here, but personally, I like to brighten it with a concealer, and this will give more shape to the brow so it looks natural but it still gives a little pop. Two colors that are good to use for people that aren’t used to wearing makeup are taupe or even a gray color. I’m gonna accentuate her eye right along her lash line and go light. It’s always easy to add more and harder to take off. I’m using the eyeshadow as an eyeliner just to give a little bit of definition to the eye. A lot of Asian eyes tend to go downward. A quick fix is to add a little bit of that shadow just towards the end. That will kind of create a shadow and help to lift the eye, and you can also take that concealer and go right towards the end of your eye to add a little bit of light. If you like, you can take a little bit of that taupe or gray shadow and accentuate a little bit just on the outer corner of the eye. An eyelash curler can be your best friend. A lot of Asian women have short lashes, so a great option is a lash primer. I like the L’Oréal Double Extend, and you just slowly brush it on, and it just gives it a little bit more volume and length, and then you can use a little bit of mascara.
Irene: This is the best makeup I’ve ever had done. I’ve had terrible experiences, and this is the first time a makeup artist has done my makeup well, and I’m so happy.
Chia-Yi: I think it looks really good. I really like it.
Michelle: I learned that I should probably try and open my eyes while doing the makeup so that I could actually see that once I open my eyes, that I’ll see the makeup.
Christy: I was afraid that it was going to be too much, but I think it’s pretty subtle.
Irene: What really helped was that I had a makeup artist who has monolids, knows how to handle them, and so I think that’s why Irene did such a great job with my makeup.